PowerDyne Arius Platinum Plates

Young man on the Edvard Petrini's
pedaled roller skates known as Takypod in
Sweden, circa 1910

Did you know that roller skates have been around since 1743?  I had no clue until I started researching the history of skates for this article.  A few years ago a family friend gave me a pair of antique roller skates complete with  metal wheels and a skate key which I now proudly display in my shoppe.  It's crazy to imagine people skating in them and actually enjoying it, but they must have because roller skating never really went away.

In recent history, creative innovators have advanced the design, performance, and functionality of roller skates.  Many of these changes involved using new materials, tweaking angles, or shifting the placement of different components; however, the mechanics pretty much stayed the same...until the Arius plate was created.  

About 5 years ago, PowerDyne introduced Arius Red plates and boasted that they were "lighter, stronger, more stable, more powerful, more maneuverable, more durable, and more efficient than any other plate, hands down."  That's right, they used the word "more" 5 times in that one sentence.

To PowerDyne's credit, Arius Red plates really were quite impressive.  They were unbelievably light, could take a beating, and performed well, but the most surprising aspect of these plates was the absence of a kingpin!

PowerDyne Arius Red Plates

Now, as we know for all other plates, kingpins hold cushions and trucks in place and are adjusted by tightening/loosening the kingpin nut for optimal performance.  Well, with the Arius plates, the axles press the trucks against specially designed Butterfly Cushions...eliminating the need for a kingpin.  Once you find the cushion hardness/combination that's right for you, there's no need to make further adjustments.

Arius Red Butterfly Cushions

I have talked to quite a few skaters who used/still use Arius Red plates.  Many said it took a bit of an adjustment period, from 1 practice to two whole weeks of skating, before they felt comfortable.  Finding the right cushion hardness by trying different combinations seems to be key; however, most said that after they got everything set up they loved how the plates performed.  As a dealer, I got to know the plates fairly intimately when mounting them to boots or working on them for customers and I found them to have a couple design issues.

The first was that the original toe stop screw was difficult to tighten enough to firmly hold a toe stop.  PowerDyne ended up coming out with a new toe stop screw that helped with this issue, but you still had to tighten it down hard to get the toe stop to stay put.  The second frustrating design was that the cushions were held in place by tiny screws, 1 on each side of the cushion which meant 4 tiny screws per plate, 8 total for the pair.  These screws were a pain to remove/install and were easily lost.

Apparently PowerDyne listened to their customers because, in 2016, they introduced the Arius Platinum plate.  This version featured the same innovations as the original Arius model, but also included a couple upgrades making them not only perform better, but easier to work with.  You can see in the pic below that the toe stop screw is now located toward the front of the plate instead of behind the toe stop, the new design makes securing the stop much easier.

Arius Platinum Plate

New Split Butterfly Cushions

PowerDyne also redesigned the trucks and cushions, eliminating those 8 tiny screws altogether (yay!).  Unfortunately, the new Split Butterfly Cushions are not compatible with the old plates and vice versa, but it's a small price to pay for making the cushions so much easier to replace/swap out.

A couple months ago, I ordered myself some Arius Platinum plates mounted on the new Solaris boots (my next article will cover Solaris boots).  The first time I tried the new setup, I encountered ran an issue that I wasn't expecting... I couldn't control my feet!  I felt like my skates were moving in and out on their own and I didn't feel comfortable lifting my wheels off the ground to do a simple crossover.  I must say, I freaked out quite a bit on the inside but tried to remain calm.  I changed out the cushions out for harder ones, which seemed to help somewhat but I could tell something else was wrong.  After trying the new skates out twice without much improvement, I grabbed my old skates to compare my plates...the axles on the Arius plates were spaced an inch further apart than my old Venus plates! According to the Arius plate size chart, I should need a size 8 plate for my size 8.5 boots and that is the size Riedell mounted on my boots before sending them to me.  I ended up removing the size 8 plates and mounted size 6 instead, which only had about a quarter inch larger axle distance.  The next time I tried them out I was able to skate like I had with my old setup, the difference was like night and day.  I'd definitely recommend comparing the wheel distance of the Arius plates with whatever you are currently skating on to see if you may need a size other than what is suggested.

Now that I've been able to skate with the correct size Arius Platinum plates for a few weeks, I can say I really do like them.  They feel different than plates with kingpins...I feel more stable yet jukey/agile at the same time.  I haven't had any issues with my toe stops, the screws tighten as expected and don't loosen on their own.  Playing around with the different hardnesses of cushions has been interesting, the plates come with 4 sets of cushions so you shouldn't need to purchase separate cushions right away.  PowerDyne offers 9 different cushion hardnesses for the new plates which means it's likely there is a combination for any skater out there.

Custom Solaris Boots with Arius Platinum Plates
(Pic courtesy of Jules Hannah)

You're probably asking yourself, "if these plates are so great, why doesn't everyone have them?"  Well, the $349 price tag is definitely a little steep.  One option that isn't going to be around for very long is to go with the Arius Red plates currently on clearance for $199.  Very limited availability on these!  These are no longer available. 

If you end up purchasing the Arius Platinum plates, they could very well be the last set of plates you ever need to buy, which isn't a bad investment.

As always, feel free to send comments/questions/feedback to me at 2N1SkateShoppe@gmail.com.

Until We Skate Again,
Shocker

Outdoor Skating Part Deux

In the Outdoor Skating post from a couple weeks ago, we talked about what wheels, bearings, and gear work well for taking your skating passion to the street.  I'd like to continue that topic by discussing a few more outdoor skating essentials.


Changes to Your Skates

Other than changing out your wheels and possibly bearings, you will probably want to invest in some softer cushions.  If you don't know much about cushions or even what a cushion is, check out More Cushion for the Pushin.

If you still have the cushions that came with your skates, chances are they are hard.  Hard means stiff, stiff means you are going to feel every crack and pebble.  Stiff means you are going to shimmy your thighs into Jello oblivion.  Stiff means your feet will vibrate until they go numb after a few short minutes of skating.  Get the picture?

If you have already discovered the joys of softer cushions, you may need to go softer or even conical to keep your legs and feet happy for the long haul.

Other things to consider are some sturdy laces and protective leather toe guards.  The best laces I've found so far are hands down Crazy laces.  I haven't seen a broken one yet, which is important because having a lace break puts a damper on any skating activities.  As for toe guards, I recommend getting some plain Derby Vixen toe guards, which are more protective than strips but you won't be getting your fancy ones torn to shreds.


What to wear
What is the weather like?  Are you skating in a hot, muggy climate or will you need to bundle up to stay warm?  Whatever the climate, dress like you are going to work out.  Flexible, moisture wicking clothing that you can wear in layers work best.  Check out Pivot Star's Francey Pants if you are in the market for some sweet workout pants.  If you are in a cold climate it can be important to be able to shed layers as you start to sweat, then replace them as you cool afterwards.

Some skaters like to wear jeans when skating outside to protect themselves from road rash, but I don't recommend them.  Jeans aren't comfortable to work out in and collect sweat like crazy.  Learn to tuck and roll when you fall to reduce the chances of getting road rash.

I suggest wearing sunglasses, even if it isn't too bright out.  They help to keep the wind and bugs out of your eyes as well as excess sunlight.

Pretty much dress like you are going to practice, but add some shades and sunscreen!


What to pack
I have a couple of small back packs with internal bladders that I like to take with me when skating outside.  Not only do they carry my water, but I can also stash my keys, ID, Chapstick, cell phone and sunscreen.

If I'm going for a long skate-over an hour or so-I'll bring some snackage like nuts or energy bars.  Nothing too heavy but substantial enough that you won't have to stop again for a while.


Hopefully these tips will help you enjoy skating outside even more.  If you have your own tips or tricks please share! 

We will be giving away a set of Heartless wheels at the end of May to one lucky G Spot reader, all you have to do to enter is post a Roller Derby themed haiku in the comments.  If you post as "Anonymous," make sure you put a name in your comment along with your haiku so I can enter you in the drawing.

Until we skate again,
Shocker

Between Your Boots and Wheels...Plates, Kingpins, and Trucks.

Photo of Shocker Khan by John Nyman

Let’s see, we've gone over wheels, bearings, cushions, and toe stops…so I guess it’s time to talk about plates, more specifically plates, trucks, and kingpins (which is usually how they come when you purchase them).  There are many plates on the market now-a-days, which is good and bad.  Good that we have so many choices and can find something that will work for our personal skating style, but bad when you are new to skating and get overwhelmed with all the choices!  It also doesn't help that there aren't industry standards for things like screw hole locations.  At least there are only two sizes of axles you are likely to encounter, so let’s start there.

Trucks
Trucks are what we call the piece that comprises the axle and pivot pin. Our wheels and bearings go on the axle, and the pivot pin (or just pivot) is what is inserted into the pivot cup in the plate.  There is also a ring coming out of the axle that I like to call the "axhole", but it's actually called the "boss".

There are two trucks per skate, so four trucks for a complete pair of skates.  There are single action and double action trucks.  Single action have one cushion that sits between the boss and then plate, and double action trucks have one cushion above the boss and another one under.  Most plates found in roller derby today are double action.

There is a hole in the boss that the kingpin goes through.  There are also some cushions like the Crazy Skates cushions where the cushions touch each other through the boss.  This helps to make the best of both worlds of the single and double action trucks by allowing the speed and stability that a single action truck gives a skater, as well as the agility and mobility that the double action truck provides.  Not every boss is big enough for these cushions so make sure you have the proper trucks before purchasing these cushions.

There are two sizes of axles, 7mm and 8mm.  Sometimes you have a choice as to which size you get with your plates, but some manufacturers only make their axles in one size.  The most common size for roller derby skates is 8mm.  It is important to know what size you have so you know what size bearings and tools to get.

Nerdy technical info: Most 7mm and 8mm axles are actually threaded for 9/32", 32-tpi and 5/16", 24-tpi (fine), nuts respectively, but they are still called 7mm and 8mm because that is the measurement of the actual smooth part of the axle. If you go out and buy metric nuts from a hardware store, they won't fit. There are a few older and less common plates that have true metric or 5/16", 18-tpi (coarse) threads, but these are not commonly used for derby.

Kingpins

Kingpins hold the trucks in place and run from the plate through the cushion cup (or retainer), top cushion, boss, bottom cushion, cushion cup, then the kingpin nut holds the whole shebang together.  The angle that the kingpin comes out of the plate is very important and can run anywhere from 10 degrees to 45 degrees.

Double Action Truck with
Kingpin and Cushions

Most entry-level plates come with a 10 degree kingpin, which is nice and stable for new skaters.  Other plates come with 15 to 45 degree kingpins; the more severe the angle, the easier it will be to make sharper turns; however, this can make a skater feel unstable and it can be difficult to control because your weight is over the pivot pin instead of the kingpin.  Some skaters stick with the 10 degree kingpins, while others choose to go for a larger angle.  The best thing to do is just try out different angles and see what fits your skating style and ability.

Some kingpins come with a micro-adjustable lock nut and washer which allows for more precise adjustments.  Usually plates with this type of kingpin come with a hefty price tag, but the new Luigino Eagle plates come with the micro-adjustable lock nut and washer for only $100.

Nerdy technical info: Most kingpins are 3/8" in diameter, however not all kingpins are the same. Some have a hex head (like a standard bolt), some thread into the plate (technically called a "stud"), some are made of steel, some are made of aluminum. When replacing a nut or broken kingpin, it is important that you replace it with the correct kingpin for your plate. Even kingpins that look the same at first glance are often threaded differently. Some are threaded 3/8", 16 tpi (coarse), others are threaded 3/8", 24tpi (fine). Still others (most notably Sure Grip) are threaded 3/8", 20 tpi, which is a funky thread called British Standard Fine (BSF). It all can be quite confusing, but it's worth paying attention to, because screwing up the threads is a quick and easy way to ruin your kingpin or plate.

Pivot Pins

The pivot pin is what connects the truck to the plate via the pivot cup.  It is designed to give the skater support and I like to think of it as the third leg of a tripod, with the axles/wheels as the other two legs.  The pivot cup, which is usually either metal or rubber, usually needs to be replaced about once a year and you should check it every once in a while to make sure there aren't any holes or lots of wear in them.  If you are able to wiggle your truck back and forth and see the pivot pin moving, it is time to either get new pivot cups or adjust the kingpin.

The pivot pin needs to be seated properly into the pivot cup.  If it is not seated correctly, too much stress is placed on the kingpin when landing a jump and you can break a kingpin, which is no fun. Pivot pins should fit securely into the bottom of the pivot cup without having to have any weight on the skate.  Some trucks come with adjustable pivot pins, while others are non-adjustable so if the pivot pin is not seated into the pivot cup you will need to adjust it by adjusting the kingpin. Incorrectly adjusted pivot pins or worn out pivot cups are a common cause of broken kingpins or trucks, so it is important to keep an eye on them for wear and adjustment.

Plates

Roller skate plates are usually made from either nylon or aluminum.  Nylon plates are nice and light, but break more easily than aluminum plates.  Some plates are made from aircraft aluminum and are therefore super light and strong, but they can be pricey.  If you are looking at replacing your current plates, know that there is no standardization of screw hole patterns so if you are changing brands or upgrading, you may need to have more holes drilled into your boot.  Some manufacturers have lines of plates that have the same hole patterns, which makes it a lot easier to upgrade.

PowerDyne Reactor Plate with
Micro Adjustable Kingpins

Plate sizing can be a little tricky.  If you are a beginner skater, you will probably want to go with a plate that is almost as long as your boot.  Make sure you look at the sizing charts for whatever plates you want to purchase because sizes are not standardized.  You may need a size 8 in one plate and a 4 in another one.  Also, there are some plates that are meant to be "short forward" mounted, which means that the plate doesn't cover most of the heel of the boot.  This is done on purpose to reduce weight while keeping your body positioned correctly.  You can order plates that are smaller than what would normally be mounted on the boot to be more agile, but I wouldn't do this until you have skated quite a few miles.

Some plates have offset toe stop design which makes the pair have left and right plates.  This seats the toe stop off-center so it sits inside toward your big toes more than plates that don't have this design.  Some skaters prefer their plates to have the toe stops right down the middle, while others like the off-set design because of how they use their toe stops.  As with pretty much any skate option, you will need to try out the different styles to see what feels best.

Bionic Super Stoppers

Lastly, there are a couple different ways that toe stops are connected to the plate. The first is with a nut and lock washer that goes around the toe stop stem, the second is with a screw that goes into the side of the plate and squeezes the plate around the toe stop to keep it in place. If you have the toe stop nut, Gumball toe stops work really well because you don't have to have them a certain way when you screw them in, at least until you flatten them a bit). If you have the type of plate with the screw on the side, I highly recommend Bionic Super Stoppers. When you have the toe stop where you want it, you just have to tighten the screw instead of having to hold the toe stop in place while you use a wrench to tighten the toe stop nut.

Well, I think that is enough for now.  If you have questions I haven't answered yet, don't hesitate to post it in the comments or send me an e-mail.  I don't have all the answers, but I'll help you out if I can! 

Upcoming Event:  January 15th we will be giving away an S-One helmet to one lucky fan who has either posted a comment or subscribed to this blog.  If you like what you have seen, please share Shocker Khan's G Spot with your friends...the more visitors we have, the more stuff we can give away!


Until we skate again,
Shocker

More Cushion for the Pushin

I've talked to many skaters who have been skating for years, and have never done more to their skates than change their wheels and maybe, just maybe, changed out their bearings. If you are one of these skaters, please grab one of your skates and have it in your hand while you are reading this article. Go ahead, I'll wait.

Dee da dum, dwiddley de, hacha hacha koo koo, ohh, ahh, chuck-a-chong..oh hey, you're back!

First, turn your skate so you are looking at it from a side view. Either side is fine. Now, the metal bar between the wheels is the truck (or axle), and if your skates are put together correctly you should have two trucks per skate. One keeps the front wheels rolling and the other keeps the rear wheels holding onto the track. There are huge bolts (kingpins) that keeps the wheels and trucks attached to the plate and if you look directly above and below the truck along the kingpin you should see colored rubbery looking things. These are your cushions.   Here is a picture for those of you visual learners...the red items are the cushions...

Cushions are part of the shock system (tee hee, shock) of your skates and can make your skates more responsive to how your feet, knees, and even hips move while skating...but theycan work against you if you have bad cushions or the wrong squishiness for your skating ability and body type. Cushions are made of urethane or rubber, which helps to make your ride smoother when going over bumps and also retains power when loaded (pressed down) to reliably and predictably release energy when you need it for those powerful jukes. When cushions go bad, this smoothness goes away and they no longer load like they should. Since cushions go bad gradually, it can be difficult to notice when it is time to change them. The rule of thumb is to replace cushions at least once a year.

Now, what's up with all the different colors? Each manufacturer, such as Sure-Grip, Riedell, and Crazy Skates to name a few, make their own cushions and have their own color system. The different colors represent different hardnesses, or "squishiness" for a more technical term. Normally, new skaters want to start off with medium to hard cushions until they learn to be more stable on their skates. Lighter skaters will normally want softer cushions compared to a heavier skater since the lighter skater doesn't have the weight to press down and load a hard cushion. As a skater evolves into being more comfortable on their skates, they usually want to switch to a softer cushion to be more maneuverable. However, it really is up to the skater what they like to skate on so try out different hardnesses and see what you like. Last bit of info on hardnesses...you don't have to have all 8 cushions the same hardness so play around to see what works for you.

The last component of cushions is the shape. All cushions are round when you look straight down on them, but from the side you see cushions that are straight up and down and others that are conical shaped. The straight ones are standard cushions and provide more stability. The conical shaped cushions create more range of motion while skating and you are able to lean further before the cushion starts pushing back. Most skates come with 8 standard cushions, but many skaters are changing this to 4 standard on the top (or part closest to your boot) and 4 conical cushions on the bottom (or part closest to the track). Conical cushions should "point" away from the truck, so if they on the top (which I've rarely seen but is an option), the small part should be closest to the boot and if they are on the bottom the small part should be closest to the track. Conical cushions require a conical cushion cup (the metal part that holds the cushion in place) so if you are switching from standard to conical, you will need to purchase conical cushion cups to replace the standard ones you are currently using.

I bet you never thought there was so much to know about these little colored pieces of chewiness!

Until we skate again, Shocker Khan