Changing Wheels

Those of you out there who have been patiently waiting for the next G Spot article, I wholeheartedly apologize.  I fully intended to publish an article a month this season, but the past couple months have been a whirlwind...in a good way!  Not only has fiveonfive, the official Roller Derby magazine of the Women's Flat Track Derby Association (WFTDA), published a few of my articles, but I also resigned from my day job to pursue a full-time Derby career.  In addition to writing articles and blog posts (Shocker Khan's G Spot and Roller Derby Nation's new venture: Rollin' News),  I continue to provide quality products and services through 2N1 Skate Shoppe, travel all over the world to train future Roller Derby super-athletes, and I have also started selling interesting items I make by hand in an Etsy store called The ShockerKnot.  These handmade items consist of jewelry and other interesting items (like this cool bottle stopper).

Enough about me, let's get to the good stuff!

Have you ever needed to quickly change out your wheels with a set that doesn't have bearings, only to have it take so long you end up missing part of practice?  Well, using the method described here, you'll be able to change out your wheels and be back on the track in no time!

First, gather your skates, new wheels, axle nut wrench, and bearing tool (optional). ***If you skate on wheels with metal hubs, having a bottle of lube on hand is a good idea.  See edit at the end of the article for more info.***

Next, position your skates so they are facing the same direction.  This is especially important if you are installing pushers; however, I like to do this even when I'm switching out 8 of the same wheels.  It helps my OCD.

You should see 4 axle nuts, unscrew and remove them, then set them aside.  If you use bearing washers (aka speed rings), remove them as well and place them with the nuts.

Use your tool to unscrew the axle nut,

remove the axle nut.

 then

Now it's time to take out the bearings (and spacer, if applicable).  The best way to remove bearings is either with a bearing press like the ones made by PowerDyne or Sure Grip, or with the more transportable Bones Bearing tool.

Use the Bones Bearing Tool to remove the outer bearing,

pry off the inner bearing with the axle.

 or






If you don't have a tool, you can pry out your inner bearing with your wheel axle, as pictured.  I don't recommend this as a frequently used bearing removal method, but every once in a while shouldn't do too much damage...hopefully. 

Alternate method of removing the outer bearing.

If you have issues getting the outer bearing to budge, you can try to push it out from the inside using the Bones Bearing tool.  For particularly stubborn bearings, I'll place the wheel face-down on a hard surface, then insert the tool and put my weight into pushing the bearing out.

Open side of a bearing faces UP on the axle.

After removing the bearings, place them back on the axle with the dust cover side toward the plate.  Both bearings will be facing the same way.  If the bearings have dust covers on both sides, it doesn't matter which way they go on the axle.  If you use bearing spacers, place one between the 2 bearings on the axle.  If you don't use spacers, see the "If you don't use spacers" paragraph below for further instructions.

Bearings With Spacer

First Bearing Seated

Now comes the fun part!  Take your new wheel, and place the OUTSIDE on the axle, centered on the first bearing, and press straight down.  You will feel the bearing seat into the wheel.  Take the wheel off the axle, and turn it around to make sure the bearing's dust cover is facing out and the open side is inside the wheel (see the pic to the right).  If the opposite happened, you didn't have the bearing facing open side up on the axle and you will need to remove the bearing from the wheel before repeating this step. 

Bearing Spacer/Speed Ring

Next, flip the wheel around and push it onto the axle until the inner bearing is completely seated in the wheel.  All you need to do now is replace the speed ring/bearing washer (if used) and tighten the axle nut until you feel resistance.   Repeat for the next 3 wheels then flip both skates over to complete swapping the last 4 wheels.




If you don't use bearing spacers...

First, I'd like to ask you, why not?  Spacers allow bearings to work properly by preventing pressure/friction.  Pair spacers with speed rings/bearing washers, and you have an awesome setup that is not only going to keep your bearings rolling longer, but you'll notice an increase in speed.  Using spacers also actually helps change out wheels when using the method I described above, so for those of you who don't use them because you say it takes too long to change out wheels...I'd like to challenge you to a wheel swapping duel!

4 Bearings Stacked, Dust Cover Side Toward Plate

But I digress...  If you don't use bearing spacers, you will need to place 4 bearings on one axle and press them into the outside of 2 wheels before pressing other bearings in the plate-side of those wheels.  See the pic to the left on how the 4 bearings will look when stacked.  The outer lip of most wheels is too concave for bearings to be properly seated if only 2 bearings are on the axle and are likely not going to be pushed far enough into the wheels to be seated so if you don't have a spacer between 2 bearings, you will need at least 3 bearings on an axle to perform this maneuver.




See how easy that is!  After you practice it a few times, it becomes second nature.  Soon you'll be able to change a whole set of wheels and get back on the track before your opponent is half-way done!

Wheeeeeee!

I hope you found this article interesting and will try out this method for changing your wheels.  Let me know if you try it out by posting a comment and I'll pick a few of you to send a free goodie to from "Shocker's Box O'Goodies."  So go try it out and post away!

Until we skate again!
Shocker

***Edited to add that a drop of lube on the inside of metal hubs works wonders to get bearings to seat properly and later be removed much easier.  This can also save your tools from being broken...I've now heard of a couple Bones Bearing tools coming apart due to trying to force bearings in/out and we had a large Bearing Press handle break due to an employee trying to force bearings in place...resistance is futile, use lube!  Thanks to Tracy for reminding me about this tip.***

Now That's Some Tasty Juice!

At the end of my last post, I asked G Spot readers to suggest review items, and they (you) delivered!  I have enough items to test/review to keep me busy for quite a while and, as promised, I will randomly give a gift basket worth over $100 from 2N1 Skate Shoppe to one of my fans who made a suggestion.  So, without further ado, congratulations Barbie OHavoc!  Shoot me an e-mail at 2N1SkateShoppe@gmail.com with your address and I'll get the goodies in the mail to you.

Juice Wheels Logo, Pretty Sweet Right?!

Now, I'd like to tell you a story.  A few months ago I received a set of wheels in the mail.  They were wheels I had never seen before from a company I had never heard of, but they had a sweet martini glass logo so I was quite intrigued.  I took to the dubbya dubbya dubbya to try to find more info on these mystery wheels, but still couldn't find anything...the mystery deepened.  Finally, I just said, "what the heck!" while slapping some bearings into the puppies and set off on my new Juice Cosmo Wheels.

I was skeptical when first testing out the Cosmo wheels.  The floor on which I was going to first test them was known for being super sticky, so I wondered if they would be too sticky, but I ended up skating 27 laps in 5 minutes.  That's only one lap fewer than my personal best and I had just returned from taking a couple months off from skating so I was quite pleased.  I was also pleased that it only took about 7 laps before the Cosmos were broken in.  That's the quickest I've ever experienced wheels breaking in, and I've tried out a lot of wheels!

After trying them on a sticky floor, I needed to see how they performed on a slick floor.  The track I found was not only slick but dusty as well, so I was prepared to be sliding all over the place.  Boy was I wrong!  Not only was the roll still incredibly fast and smooth, but they had amazing grip and a controlled slide.  It's almost impossible not to go fast when skating on these wheels, and as a big girl who is used to having to really work to get some speed, I have no problem with that.  These wheels are really giving my previous favorites, Crazy Play Slim 59mm, a run for their money!  (If you are interested in reading more about my experience with the Crazy Play wheels, check out my article on them, Crazy at Play.)

Juice Wheels got their website and FaceBook up and running a few weeks after sending me the tester wheels, so I was finally able to acquire the rest of the wheels they make in their Martini, Spiked, and Jolt series of quad wheels. 

Juice Cosmo 93a

Cosmos are the middle durometer offered by the Juice Wheels Martini series. The Martini line includes Sapphires (91a), Cosmos (93a), and Appletinis (95a), all are 59mm high by 38mm wide, and retail for around $120 for a set of 8 wheels.  That is a little steep compared to other wheels on the market, but it is because they are composed of dual poured urethane and a radial design core.  This dual poured urethane causes more wheel surface area to remain on the track longer than other wheels while the radial core retains and releases energy from your stride, which is why skaters are able to achieve amazing grip without having to compromise speed as sometimes happens with softer wheels.

I have been recommending the Juice Martini series to many of my fellow skaters for them to try out.  The Sapphire wheels have hit it off with my clients who don't weigh much or who need extra grip,  while the Appletinis are working better for skaters who want less grip, are heavier, or skate on extremely sticky surfaces.  For skaters who are just looking for an all around great wheel that works on many surfaces, the Cosmos have been a hands-down favorite.

Juice Monster 95a

Juice Wheels also offers two other wheel lines, Spiked and Jolt.  The Spiked line of wheels include AMP (91a), NRG (93a), and Monster (95a).  Spiked wheels retail at $100 for a set of 8, so they are more affordable, and while they still have the radial designed core, they don't have the dual poured urethane.

Juice Jolt 80a

Jolts are Juice's hybrid offering with a durometer of 80a and they come in two sizes, 62mm and 59mm.  They are $80 for a whole set and have worked well for skaters on super slick/dusty floors.  I haven't yet had the pleasure to try out any of the Spiked or Jolt wheels, but if they perform anywhere near the Martini series, I know I'm in for a treat!



One final note about Juice Martini Wheels: their marketing is genious.  They named the wheels after drinks, their packaging has a picture of a martini glass on the front, and on the back of their package they have "Supplement Facts" that read like nutritional information.  It all ties together quite nicely and has a theme I can get behind.  The only issue I have is that they didn't continue this theme with their Spiked and Jolt wheels and instead went with electricity inspired names.  At least the Spiked wheels have the Juice martini glass logo on the surface area.

To summarize my experiences and those of my fellow skaters who have tried the Juice Martini series of wheels, here is a list of pros and cons:

Pros:

• Excellent speed (can't say that enough)!
• Amazing grip that doesn't interfere with speed.
• Nice and lightweight.
• Great on many different surfaces.
• Pretty sweet marketing and packaging design.

Cons:

• Only comes in 59mm.
• Cost could be a little steep for some skaters.

If you are now interested in trying out some of the Juice Martini series wheels but want to try before you buy, you can check them out from the 2N1 Skate Shoppe Wheel Library for a $20 deposit.  If you aren't sure which ones might work best for you, send me an e-mail at 2N1SkateShoppe@gmail.com and I'll do my best to help you out.


For my next giveaway, I have 5 packs of KT Tape Pro to give away.  These KT Tape Pro packs come in 10 cool colors and include 20 pre-cut strips which makes applying them super easy.  You can use this stuff for just about every injury and the website has tons of video instructions which makes applying the strips super easy.



If you want to be in the running to win some, all you have to do is go to the 2N1 Skate Shoppe FaceBook page and write a review about anything related to 2N1.  You can write it on a product, service you have received, or even the 2N1 website, up to you.  I'll announce the winners in my next G Spot post.


Until we skate again!
Shocker

A Serious Case of Vertigo

The first pair of skates I had were some used Sure Grip Rebels that barely made it a year before they were literally falling off my feet.  I was having to use Shoe Goo after every practice/bout just to keep them together...it was rough.  But what was even rougher was when I got my shiny new Riedell 1065's.  I wasn't prepared to learn how to skate all over again, and even though I had thrown out my old skates, I wanted to just go back to them, go back to what was familiar.

It took a couple weeks (felt like years!) before I was able to go through a whole practice without having to concentrate on my skates, but after I got used to them they felt more like an extension of my body than tools used to get around the track.  It was wonderful, yet it was nothing compared to when I got my new Vertigo boots.

Vertigo Series of Boots

If you have been skating for a while, you've no doubt heard of the Atom and Bionic brands.  If you have been around the speed skating circuit Luigino should be a familiar brand to you as well. All of these are related to each other, and while it can get confusing at times exactly how they interrelate, what's not confusing is the quality of products produced by these companies.  In the past few months, Luigino has finally made their way to the Roller Derby track with the new (and much anticipated) Vertigo boots and Pilot plate systems, and the quality is just as high as expected.

When you get these boots, they come with special bags which are used to heat them up in a pot of boiling water before molding them to your feet.  This unique system makes it so there is little to no break-in period.  When you couple these boots with the Pilot plate system, you get a super light weight and responsive pair of skates.

The hardest thing for me to get used to with my new Q-6 skates with Pilot Falcon plates was that it felt like I was skating with nothing on my feet.  Think ballerina slippers with Juke wheels and Bionic Super Stopper toe stops...glorious.

Vertigo Q-4 Boots with Pilot Plates and Atom Lowboy Wheels

Not only are these new boots and plates pretty awesome, but Luigino has come up with the "Create a Skate"  system where you can get up to 20% off a complete skate package when you build your new pair of skates using all Luigino/Atom/Bionic components.  Since these are generally mid- to high-range skates, 20% off is a pretty sweet deal.

2N1 Skate Shoppe just received a huge shipment of Vertigo boots for skaters to try on or purchase.  Vertigo boots are sized about half a size larger than women's shoes, so if you normally wear size 8, you will most likely need size 7.5 Vertigo boots.  If you are not able to make it to the shoppe and want to try the boots on before you buy, 2N1 has been known to ship boots to skaters to try on (with collateral, of course).

Atom Backpack

While you're drooling over your next pair of skates...why not take a chance at winning an Atom backpack to carry around those new babies!  Take a pic of yourself flashing the shocker, sporting a 2N1 Skate Shoppe temporary tattoo, or showing off gear you got from 2N1 and post it on the 2N1 FaceBook page and you could be carrying around your gear in style.

Now I know you keep coming back for my witty take on Roller Derby gear, but I know giving away stuff also helps to pique your interest...I don't plan on letting you down.  We have a few items stashed in the shoppe to give away and are working on getting more.  Right now a helmet, bearing tool, wheels, and bearings are just waiting to be given away...all in due time.

If you are interested in a product, whether it be brand new or something that has been around the track a few times, let me know and I'll not only test it out and review it, but also try to get some to give away.  The more readers I have, the more items I'll be able to get to give away so please share this with your friends.

Until we skate again,
Shocker

Catching Up With the Undead

I was finally able to test out Sure Grip Zombie wheels for the past few weeks.  They are a recently introduced (within the last year) roller skate wheel available in three sizes; Max, Mid, and Low, and three hardnesses; 89a, 92a, and 95a.  All the wheels are a nice sleek black urethane and the hubs are colored aluminum...here are the stats: 

• Zombie 58mm Low – Smaller 58mm outer diameter and slimmer 38mm width wheels provide instant acceleration and increased lateral response.
• Zombie 62mm Mid – Slimmer 38mm width for increased lateral response.
• Zombie 62mm Max – 42mm full width wheel design for maximum grip and stability.

• 89A Purple Core – Polished concrete and other slippery surfaces for insane grip. Can also be used as a pusher wheel.
• 92A Black Core – For use on coated surfaces and tile. Loaded with an insane mix of grip and speed.
• 95A Red Core – For use on sticky surfaces, track, or soft skate court where a hard wheel is desired for increased roll.

These wheels look sharp, but how do they perform?

Normally, I wear wheels that are about 90a hardness for practice, so I tried out a combination of 89a/92a in the Low size.  Aluminum hub wheels are usually reported to be less grippy than those with nylon hubs so I was prepared to slide all over the place-this didn't happen.  I was so stuck to the track I didn't dare try a hockey stop at full speed for fear of snapping an ankle.  Aluminum hub wheels don't flex under a skater's weight like nylon hubs, thus making them roll faster, have a smoother ride, and (usually) gives the skater less grip.  This can be especially helpful for us skaters with a bit more heft.

Once I got over how grippy these wheels were, I was pleasantly surprised at how these rolled around the track.  The ride was smooth, I didn't feel any noticeable weight difference, and even though I couldn't slide at all my speed wasn't compromised.

Some of the wheels had little pieces of urethane coming off of them.  It looked like some of the urethane had gotten onto the aluminum hub during production and ended up coming off after the wheels were used...none of the pieces I saw coming off would make a difference in the way the wheel worked, it was just aesthetically unpleasing.

Another item skaters have contacted me about is that sometimes bearings do not want to stay in the wheel when changing wheels out...this is something that occurs with a lot of aluminum hubs due to the rigidity of the metal.  This is actually not something to worry about as long as the bearings aren't moving around in the hub.  It might be a little annoying, but it's worse to get a bearing stuck in a wheel!

We have sold quite a few sets of Zombie wheels in all sizes and hardnesses and almost all of the feedback has been positive.  I would recommend these for skaters who are ready to step things up from a nylon hub but may not be ready to spend a lot of money.  At $55 for a 4 pack, Sure Grip has produced a decent wheel just about every skater can afford.

To sum things up, here are the Pros and Cons of the Sure Grip Zombie wheels:

Pros:
Fast, smooth roll
Light in weight
Cool looking
Relatively inexpensive

Cons:
Grippier than expected
Small amount of peeling may occur
Bearings may slip out when changing wheels

Have you tried these?  If so, tell us what you think in the comments...

Until we skate again,
Shocker

Crazy at Play

Have you ever rolled on a new set of wheels and thought to yourself, "I'm in love?"  When I tried out Play wheels by Crazy Skates, that's exactly what I thought, and not just for the first week either.  The more I rolled on these, the more I loved them.

The first thing I noticed was how light the Play wheels are.  I haven't actually weighed them to see if they are in fact lighter, or if I just felt lighter skating around in them, either way they are a wonderful experience.

When I put the wheels on, I thought I would be slipping around everywhere.  I usually skate on 89a and 92a wheels at our normal practice space, so the 93a hardness made me a little apprehensive.  After a few laps this apprehension quickly turned to joy as I was able to grip around the corners and had no problem skating some of the quickest laps of my life.  The true fun came when I went to stop, specifically hockey stop...then hockey stopped again, and again, and again.  I'm still not sure how a wheel can make hockey stops not only easy but enjoyable, but these certainly found a way.

Out of all the wheels I've tried in the past 4 years, these are hands down my absolute favorite.  These wheels come in 90a (Rewind), 93a (Play), and 96a (Fast Forward) hardnesses, so if you skate on an uber slick or sticky floor, there are wheels for you as well.  You can purchase them here for around $80 a set.

The only con I have about these wheels is that I had to take them off to try out more wheels!  If you have tried these as well, please let me know how you like them.  I'd like to know if I'm loony, or if these really are made of spun unicorn hair.

Consumption Most Conspicuous

This week, Elektra Q Tion and I decided to collaborate on complimentary blog posts about personal beefs in Roller Derby and how it affects what you purchase.  If you've been anywhere on FaceBook in the past few days, you've likely seen Atomatrix's recent post apologizing for her role in "transfergate" and how, to some skaters, it soured them on her brand.  It got me thinking about what drives a skater to make a purchase.  Does conspicuous consumption, aka "keeping up with the Jonses" have anything to do with it?  Do you purchase your equipment because everyone else has that product?  Or do you research gear and try items on before throwing your money at a dealer?  Check out Elektra Q Tion's blog post on this topic and many others at http://elektraqtion.blogspot.com/


We've all seen the brand new skater who walks in with a pair of $700 skates and the top of the line everything, only to quit 3 weeks later.  Back when I rock climbed we called people like this "Gold Card Climbers."  They would have all top of the most expensive equipment, then barely know how to tie a figure 8 follow through and didn't care to learn more about the sport.  They just wanted to look good and show off their ability to swipe a card through a slot more than clipping into a carabiner while lead climbing.  Now I'm not saying that anyone who goes out and buys the best gear before strapping on skates for the first time isn't going to last, but when I see a person do this then quit soon after it makes me sad.  It also shows me that it isn't necessarily the gear that makes the skater; great skaters can take what they are given and make the most of it.  That being said, let's look at some gear that is really worth the extra dough and some that can save you money and not affect your safety or skating skills.

S-One Helmets Before Flying Off the Shelves...gotta get them when you can!

Let's start off by taking it from the top.  Your brain is pretty important and although it is protected by a thick skull, it can get jostled around fairly easily when it connects with the track, wall, or other skaters.  When looking for a helmet, I suggest getting one that is at least CPSC certified.  You will see the certification on a sticker inside the helmet.  CPSC stands for Consumer Product Safety Commission and they do tests to determine how safe products are which includes some pretty extensive testing on helmets.  My favorites are the S-One Lifer helmets which come in a great variety of colors as well as some with artist's designs on them.  They are one of the only CPSC certified helmets I have found that come in orange and are a sponsor of the WFTDA which makes them.  Another reason why I love S-One helmets is because once they are damaged from protecting your noggin, you just send back the damaged helmet with $25 and they send you a new one.

The Last Mouthguard You'll Ever Need

Since we started at the top, why not just move our way down to mouthguards.  When I first started skating the only mouthguards we had available to us were el cheapo ones from a sporting goods store made for sports where apparently speaking, hydrating, or breathing heavily were not priorities.  Then came the dentist made ones which were 100 times better, but unless you got a dentist to sponsor your league, you were going to have to pay a pretty penny for one.  If the SISU mouthguards hadn't come out on the market I would say that the extra money at the dentist is well worth it; however, SISU is here and is the best mouthguard ever.  Not only is it super thin and forms exactly to your mouth, but they are 30% stronger than conventional mouthguards and retail at only $25.  SISU also came out with the LYFT spray which keeps your mouthguard minty fresh for only $7.  One tiny spritz keeps your guard fresh for up to 2 weeks and a tiny bottle will last a LONG time.  Those of you who gag on your mouthguards or just hate the taste of them need to try this stuff.  It's a game changer.

Silicone Strips Make All the Difference

When I first started skating, the only elbow, knee, and wrist protection we could find locally were cheap and fell apart pretty soon after using them.  They weren't made for Roller Derby, rather for skate boarders taking a tumble once in a while.  Now we don't use our elbows as much as our knees, but when you get laid out flat and happen to land on one, you will really appreciate your elbow pads.  There are quite a few on the market so instead of me listing a bunch, I'll just tell you what to look for.  Elbow pads should be very snug when you first put them on, they will stretch out so if they feel perfect you probably need to go down a size so they don't fall down after they break in.  Look for pads that have a nice hard cap to protect the elbow.  My Atom Elite elbow pads are perfect, except the hard cap could be a little harder and guess what...they are coming out with some exactly like that very soon!  I hope they keep the silicon strips on the top and bottom of the pads, my pads never slip because of them.

T8RD-Snug and Protective

Onto wrists...the new Triple 8 Roller Derby wrist guards are a wonderful improvement over the little strips of metal bars on the old style guards.  These new ones were made specifically for Roller Derby so they are sturdy, snug, and the wider metal bar protects more of the palm/wrist area.  The neoprene wrapping around the wrist gives a lot of comfort and makes skaters feel very protected for $30.

Atom Palms are Airy and a Huge Bargain

The other wrist guards on the market that I can't get over are the Atom Palm Guards. These guards are unique in the fact that they don't have a protective strip on the back of the hand like other wrist guards; however, the protection for the palm area is the best I've found.  It covers the complete palm up to the wrist with a nifty strapping system.  Not everyone likes the feel of these and I don't recommend them for freshie skaters, but for only $15 they are one of the bargains more experienced skaters can count on.

Smith Scabs Really Deliver

Now for your knees...these get the most pounding than any other body part, especially when first learning to skate.  There are quite a few different brands and styles of knee pads out there, but most of them were designed for skate boarding where they don't practice things like double knee falls (that I know of).  One brand that I've found to be compatible for Roller Derby are the Smith Scabs knee pads which come in three fabric patterns to choose from and cover more area below the knee than any others I've found and they are a steal at $70.  The drawback, they only come in two sizes so if you have legs that are slimmer or plumper than average, you're SOL.

Finally a Knee Pad Just for Us!

The other knee pads that are flying off the shelves are the new 187 Roller Derby knee pads, and for good reason-they were specifically designed for our sport!  Not only do they come in some pretty colors, but they also offer a wide array of sizes.  These new pads are slimmer than the old 187 Killer knee pads and they have fixed that pesky Velcro adhesive issue, so if they feel right for your body they are definitely worth the $90 price tag.  While that may seem pretty hefty, when you compare it to how much a knee surgery costs there really isn't anything to say.

The last knee pads I'd like to talk about are the Atom Elite ones.  They are not for beginners; however, there is good news!  Not only is Atom coming out with new elbow pads, but knee pads as well and they look sick.   They will have the more common butterfly strapping system instead of having to pull them on like a gasket.  I can't wait to try them out!


Skates are so diverse that I can't really just point to one and say here is the end all be all of roller skates.  This is where you will have to do some reasearch, get to know your body, and try on a ton of boots to see what is going to work for you.  I will say that getting a pair of $30 skates from Sports Authority is pretty much throwing your money away.  I would rather see someone cut out some circles to tape to their sneakers and run around the track like that until they save enough moolah to get a decent pair of starter skates (usually in the $200 range).

Tons of S-One helmets, Smith Scabs knees, SISU mouthguards, and Atom wrist guards for these Ragnarok Rollers!

For my closing statement, I would just like to give a shout out to the companies who are dedicated to bringing us equipment specifically designed for what we do and who we are.  Companies like Atom, Crazy Skates, and GrnMnstr are all about Roller Derby, and others like Riedell, The 187, and Triple 8 have evolved some of their products to fit our needs.  When you are ready to drop some dough on new equipment, try to purchase gear from a company that is supporting Roller Derby so they can continue to bring us amazing products to protect our fragile parts while not hindering performance.

What's Up With Wheels?

My goal with this blog is to spread some of the knowledge I've acquired the past few years to all levels of skaters.  The first series of posts will cover the basics of gear, which may be a review for more advanced skaters, but after we make our way through the basics, I can focus more on specific product and in-depth reviews.  

I looked for a good picture of wheels in action and found this nice memory from the final tournament bout of last season.  As you can see, Blitzkrieg Baker (only ass is pictured) and I (orange helmet) turned into a centaur-like animal in order to engulf Salmon Ella with our massive booties.  

It looks like everyone is wearing Heartless wheels, which work amazingly well on the surface in the Dena'ina Center.  This post will cover many things about wheels and hopefully, after you have read it, you will be a little more knowledgeable or at least a little refreshed.



Now, onto wheels!
Juke, Poison, Fugitive, Interceptor, Sugar, Heartless, Radar…there are so many wheels to choose from it can get overwhelming.  But before we look at different manufacturers or specific wheels they offer, let's first go over the anatomy of a roller skate wheel.

Anatomy of a Wheel
Looking at this cross section of the Adonis wheel, we can see the outer layer (blue in this case) which is made from polyurethane of different durometers (hardnesses).  These hardnesses are represented by a number followed by an "A", such as 92A, or 86A.  Some wheels will designate their hardness as "hybrid" or "outdoor" which usually have hardnesses of around 84A and 78A, respectively.  The higher the durometer, the harder the wheel will be.

The hub (white in this photo) holds the polyurethane in place and provides a place for the bearing to sit.  Hubs have some variation, with some having a solid core, others having a hollow core, and some having an aluminum core.  These different cores allow for different weights, speeds, traction, and grip.

Bearings
Next comes the bearings, which we could go on and on about, but we won't because they will have their own post later on...but we can go over a few basics while we are on the topic.  Each wheel takes 2 bearings.  The bearings can have 6, 7, or 8 ball bearings within them, but 7 is standard.  In this image, there is a bearing spacer between the two bearings.  Bearing spacers help to keep the bearings working correctly and I've noticed a huge difference in my speed since I started using them.  There seems to be a divide amongst skaters about whether these are needed or not, but instead of listening to a bunch of differing opinions, why not try some and see what you think?  2N1 Skate Shoppe has some bearing spacers for $4 a set, plus bearing washers for $5 a set (I recommend using both to get the most out of your bearings).

Wheel Sizing and Grooves
Now that we have dissected a wheel and looked at its innards, let's take a look of some of the wheel's outer characteristics.  Standard wheels are about 40mm wide and 62mm in height. These wheels become clunky for many skaters, so often they turn to lower and/or thinner wheels, such as the Atom Lowboy Slim which are 62mm high and 38mm wide or the GRN MNSTR Heartless wheels which are 62mm high and 35mm wide (one of the skinniest wheels on the market).  The Adonis Micro Wheels are the lowest and skinniest wheels I've seen on the market at 50mm high and 32mm wide.  I will do product reviews on these wheels for a later blog, but if you have any questions on any of these wheels, or anything else, please feel free to send me an e-mail at 2N1SkateShoppe@gmail.com.

On the surface of most indoor wheels, you will see grooves running along the circumference of the wheel.  These grooves help to grip to surfaces and you can get your wheels regrooved once they have worn out to make your wheels better than new.  It is much cheaper to get a set of wheels regrooved than purchase a whole new set.  

Choosing Your Wheels
What are the factors that go into choosing a set of wheels?  Well, your skating level is definitely a factor.  If you are just starting to skate and are having trouble staying upright, you probably want to start out with some fairly sticky and wide wheels.  Check out some Atom Poison wheels for great grip and stability.

At the point where you feel like you are skating through peanut butter?  Time to think of some harder or thinner wheels.  You may also want to switch to some harder and/or skinnier wheels if you experience shin splints, which can be caused from your muscles having to work too hard.  Sure Grip Zombie wheels are also popular because they come in 3 sizes and 3 harnesses for a total of 9 different combinations to choose from. Coupled with their anodized aluminum hubs, they have quickly become a popular new wheel!

Slipping out all the time on turns?  You can get a grip with some softer wheels, but grippier wheels tend to be slower so you sacrifice speed for stability.  When you first start skating, slipping even a little can feel very disconcerting.  When you feel more comfortable on your skates you get used to crossing over more quickly on slicker surfaces and sliding makes practicing hockey stops and power slides much easier.

Another factor to consider is your weight.  Wheels that work great to keep a 100 lb skater on a fairly sticky track are going to make someone like me (a “big girl”) feel like I’m super glued to the track.  Don't feel like just because half the team has a wheel that works perfectly for them, that it should also work for you.  

Personal Preferences
Lastly, everyone has their own personal preference so when you are getting ready to purchase some new wheels, see if someone else already has some you can borrow first just to make sure they will work for you.  If that isn't an option, look for wheels that come in 4 packs so you can adjust your wheels by purchasing a 4 pack of grippier or harder wheels instead of another 8 pack, which can get pretty expensive.  I have a box of wheels that I bring to practice with me for other skaters to try out and have even sent them to clients to try out before purchasing their new wheels just to make sure they are getting the best wheels possible for them.  It really helps to make sure you are getting the best bang for your buck.

Cleaning Your Wheels
Cleaning wheels is super easy, just pop out your bearings (very important!), throw them in a tub with warm soapy water in it, then scrub with one of those green and yellow sponges. I normally use either dish washing liquid or laundry detergent for soap, which has worked for me really well. If the gunk on the wheels is really caked on you can let the wheels soak a bit in some fairly hot soapy water before scrubbing (almost too hot for your hands is usually perfect). Have a towel handy and after you have scrubbed all that dirt and grime off the wheel, take it and smack it against the towel a few times to get as much water out of the nooks as possible. This will allow a faster drying time. I don't worry about rinsing them after their bath, but it wouldn't hurt. Another way to dry them off is to use some canned air, or even better an air compressor if you happen to have one handy.

Well, I think that's a good place to stop for now.  Like I said, I want to have a nice overview of different pieces of gear before getting too far into the muck and the mire.  Next we will explore the awesomeness of those colorful little gummy looking things under your skate, connected to your king pin....your cushions!

Until then, skate safe and I'll see you on the track!

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