Changing Wheels

Those of you out there who have been patiently waiting for the next G Spot article, I wholeheartedly apologize.  I fully intended to publish an article a month this season, but the past couple months have been a whirlwind...in a good way!  Not only has fiveonfive, the official Roller Derby magazine of the Women's Flat Track Derby Association (WFTDA), published a few of my articles, but I also resigned from my day job to pursue a full-time Derby career.  In addition to writing articles and blog posts (Shocker Khan's G Spot and Roller Derby Nation's new venture: Rollin' News),  I continue to provide quality products and services through 2N1 Skate Shoppe, travel all over the world to train future Roller Derby super-athletes, and I have also started selling interesting items I make by hand in an Etsy store called The ShockerKnot.  These handmade items consist of jewelry and other interesting items (like this cool bottle stopper).

Enough about me, let's get to the good stuff!

Have you ever needed to quickly change out your wheels with a set that doesn't have bearings, only to have it take so long you end up missing part of practice?  Well, using the method described here, you'll be able to change out your wheels and be back on the track in no time!

First, gather your skates, new wheels, axle nut wrench, and bearing tool (optional). ***If you skate on wheels with metal hubs, having a bottle of lube on hand is a good idea.  See edit at the end of the article for more info.***

Next, position your skates so they are facing the same direction.  This is especially important if you are installing pushers; however, I like to do this even when I'm switching out 8 of the same wheels.  It helps my OCD.

You should see 4 axle nuts, unscrew and remove them, then set them aside.  If you use bearing washers (aka speed rings), remove them as well and place them with the nuts.

Use your tool to unscrew the axle nut,

remove the axle nut.

 then

Now it's time to take out the bearings (and spacer, if applicable).  The best way to remove bearings is either with a bearing press like the ones made by PowerDyne or Sure Grip, or with the more transportable Bones Bearing tool.

Use the Bones Bearing Tool to remove the outer bearing,

pry off the inner bearing with the axle.

 or






If you don't have a tool, you can pry out your inner bearing with your wheel axle, as pictured.  I don't recommend this as a frequently used bearing removal method, but every once in a while shouldn't do too much damage...hopefully. 

Alternate method of removing the outer bearing.

If you have issues getting the outer bearing to budge, you can try to push it out from the inside using the Bones Bearing tool.  For particularly stubborn bearings, I'll place the wheel face-down on a hard surface, then insert the tool and put my weight into pushing the bearing out.

Open side of a bearing faces UP on the axle.

After removing the bearings, place them back on the axle with the dust cover side toward the plate.  Both bearings will be facing the same way.  If the bearings have dust covers on both sides, it doesn't matter which way they go on the axle.  If you use bearing spacers, place one between the 2 bearings on the axle.  If you don't use spacers, see the "If you don't use spacers" paragraph below for further instructions.

Bearings With Spacer

First Bearing Seated

Now comes the fun part!  Take your new wheel, and place the OUTSIDE on the axle, centered on the first bearing, and press straight down.  You will feel the bearing seat into the wheel.  Take the wheel off the axle, and turn it around to make sure the bearing's dust cover is facing out and the open side is inside the wheel (see the pic to the right).  If the opposite happened, you didn't have the bearing facing open side up on the axle and you will need to remove the bearing from the wheel before repeating this step. 

Bearing Spacer/Speed Ring

Next, flip the wheel around and push it onto the axle until the inner bearing is completely seated in the wheel.  All you need to do now is replace the speed ring/bearing washer (if used) and tighten the axle nut until you feel resistance.   Repeat for the next 3 wheels then flip both skates over to complete swapping the last 4 wheels.




If you don't use bearing spacers...

First, I'd like to ask you, why not?  Spacers allow bearings to work properly by preventing pressure/friction.  Pair spacers with speed rings/bearing washers, and you have an awesome setup that is not only going to keep your bearings rolling longer, but you'll notice an increase in speed.  Using spacers also actually helps change out wheels when using the method I described above, so for those of you who don't use them because you say it takes too long to change out wheels...I'd like to challenge you to a wheel swapping duel!

4 Bearings Stacked, Dust Cover Side Toward Plate

But I digress...  If you don't use bearing spacers, you will need to place 4 bearings on one axle and press them into the outside of 2 wheels before pressing other bearings in the plate-side of those wheels.  See the pic to the left on how the 4 bearings will look when stacked.  The outer lip of most wheels is too concave for bearings to be properly seated if only 2 bearings are on the axle and are likely not going to be pushed far enough into the wheels to be seated so if you don't have a spacer between 2 bearings, you will need at least 3 bearings on an axle to perform this maneuver.




See how easy that is!  After you practice it a few times, it becomes second nature.  Soon you'll be able to change a whole set of wheels and get back on the track before your opponent is half-way done!

Wheeeeeee!

I hope you found this article interesting and will try out this method for changing your wheels.  Let me know if you try it out by posting a comment and I'll pick a few of you to send a free goodie to from "Shocker's Box O'Goodies."  So go try it out and post away!

Until we skate again!
Shocker

***Edited to add that a drop of lube on the inside of metal hubs works wonders to get bearings to seat properly and later be removed much easier.  This can also save your tools from being broken...I've now heard of a couple Bones Bearing tools coming apart due to trying to force bearings in/out and we had a large Bearing Press handle break due to an employee trying to force bearings in place...resistance is futile, use lube!  Thanks to Tracy for reminding me about this tip.***

Tis the Season...for Outdoor Skating!

Spring is finally here! (For us in the Northern hemisphere that is...) and that means Outdoor Skating!  So other than the wind blowing through your hair and getting a nice dose of vitamin D from the sun, what does that mean for us?  Well, when trail skating you have to hop over obstacles, stop quickly, skate up hills, and deal with different skating surfaces which helps you to become a more confident and skilled skater.  Here are a few tips for those brave enough to hit the trails on eight wheels.
I've heard from a lot of skaters who are upgrading from their first pair of skates that they are going to use their old skates as "outdoor skates."  From my experience, this rarely actually happens.  Once you get used to your awesome new skates it is quite difficult, and often unnecessary, to go back to that old pair. 

If you are bouting, scrimmaging, or doing some seriously heavy practicing on asphalt where you are going to be falling a lot, then I could see wanting to wear your less expensive boots...but if you are just going to be doing some trail skating or practicing on smooth concrete there really isn't a need to keep those old skates around.

What you will need, however, is some outdoor wheels.  If you haven't had a proper set of outdoor wheels and have only tried skating outside with old indoor wheels, you are in for a treat!  Outdoor wheels are about 78a hardness, which is super soft and will roll over cracks and rocks with ease.  I recommend either Pulses, which come in a variety of colors, or Kryptonics, which not only come in a variety of colors but also 3 sizes to choose from.  Here are the details:



Atom Pulse Wheels

Atom Pulse Green, Pink, Smoke, Blue, and Purple Wheels

• 78a durometer (super soft)
• 65mm x 37mm
• Pink, Blue, Green, Purple, Smoke
• Weight-2 lbs for 8 wheels

Pulses are popular for a reason, not only will you roll over cracks and pebbles with ease, but they are also available in 5 sweet colors-they look like gummy Life Savers!  They are shaped like regular indoor wheels (not slim or micro) so they are nice and stable for long trail skating sessions.



Sure Grip Kryptonic Route Wheels

• 78a durometer (super soft)
• 62mm x 37mm available in Red, Black, Blue, or Clear
• 65mm x 40mm available in Red, Black, Blue, or Clear
• 70mm x 42mm available in Red, Blue, or Clear 
• Weight-Route 62's 1.6 lbs, Route 65's 1.9 lbs and Route 70's 2.65 lbs



Kryptonic Route 62, 65, and 70 Wheels



I have been skating on Kryptonics for years and love their unique shape which not only makes them lighter in weight than they would be with a normal edge, but pebbles ping out from under your skates instead of getting stuck and making you go flying (not fun!).  The Route 70's are a bit on the heavy side, but they are super stable and nice for beginner skaters.

If you are used to slim or low wheels for indoor skating, the Route 62 or 65 wheels will work well for outdoor skating and shouldn't feel too different in terms of width or height when switching from indoor to outdoor and back again.

A few skaters have asked me what I think about skating outside with hybrid wheels (usually about an 84a durometer wheel).  These wheels tend to lose their stickiness ability once you skate outside on them so I prefer to keep them really clean and use them for super slick floors; however, if you only have a choice between hybrid or indoor wheels, go with the hybrids...your feet will thank me when they don't go numb from the vibrations!




Cheezeballs Gouda Bearings

Now that we've gone over wheels, let's take a second to talk bearings.  Personally, I prefer to use cheap or older bearings in my outdoor wheels, such as Qube Pink bearings.  That way, if I skate through a puddle or get caught in some rain and the bearings seize or rust, I won't feel bad about tossing them.  It is also helpful to use bearings that have dust covers on them to help keep them from seizing.  The other alternative is to get some ceramic bearings, which won't rust, but they will cost you a pretty penny.  If you're going to go the ceramic route, I highly recommend Cheezeball Gouda bearings-so fast and smooth! 

If you are a new reader of the G Spot and would like to learn more about bearings, here is a post you may find helpful...Get Your Bearings.



187 Lock-In Recaps



All we have left now is protective gear...you can (and probably should) use all the same equipment as when you skate inside, but will probably want to either use some old knee pads or get some that have knee caps you can easily replace such as the new 187 Pro Derby knee pads.  Not only are the Lock-In Recaps easy to replace, but they lock in place (these babies are never accidentally falling off!) and also come in tons of colors.  Before ordering, make sure you know if you have the old 187 knee pads or the new ones, and pay attention to the sizing chart because they come in two sizes. 

Lastly, I'd like to give you a few tips I have had to learn the hard way...keep your knees bent when going over rocky or uneven terrain, keep one foot in front of the other when going fast (helps to keep you from doing a Superman), tuck-and-roll when you fall since it's hard to slide on asphalt, and always yield to vehicles, even if you have the right-of-way.  You are now ready to get out there and start skating on your favorite bike trails or back roads! 

For the next blog post I'm going to continue this topic.  There are a few more items to discuss for outdoor skating such as: what to pack for long trail rides, what to wear, and helpful changes to your skates.

When you're hitting the trails, why not contemplate the great sport of Roller Derby and compile a haiku?  You could win a set of Heartless wheels for your trouble.  Just leave your poem in the comments between now and May 31st and you could be skating around on some of the slimmest (and sweetest) wheels in the Derbyverse!

Edit: I need a name (real/derby/whatev) to keep track of entries into the contest. 


Until we skate again!
Shocker

A Vacation for Your Bearings

Before I get into this week's product review, I'd like to show what happens if you mistreat your bearings...

Photo courtesy of Matt Powell

Note how the metal dust covers are bent inward on these otherwise brand new bearings.  I would bet $100 that the person who owned these used something other than a Bones Bearing Tool or other proper device to put the bearings into or pull them out of their wheel.  Then they wondered why these brand new bearings aren't helping them go faster.  Now, these bearings were salvageable, I just had to remove the metal ring and pop out the dust covers and now they are working just fine, but I couldn't put the covers back on so I'll have to clean/lube them more often than if they still had the dust covers on them.  Which brings us to our featured products:

The Happy Place for Bearings

I used to clean my bearings in a mason jar...not anymore or ever again!  I recently discovered the Qube Bearing Spa and I'm never looking back.  What makes the spa different from using a mason jar or other bearing cleaning devices?

Well, the first major difference is that the spa cleans all 16 bearings at once, which is super convenient for us roller skaters.  The other difference is that the spa comes with Qube Bearing Wash Cleaner which is environmentally safe and you only have to soak bearings for about 5 minutes before agitating them to get the gunk out.  The spa fits either 7mm or 8mm bearings and comes with easy-to-understand instructions complete with nifty pictures.

The instructions say to remove dust covers from the bearings prior to cleaning them, but I've found that many times, even when you are super careful, it's pretty easy to bend the dust covers.  Sometimes they bend so slightly you don't know anything is wrong until you go to change out your bearings after doing a half-hour of suicide drills and end up burning your fingers on your super-hot-due-to-friction bearing (yes, this has happened to me).  If your bearings are sealed with dust covers on both sides, I recommend you remove one of the covers (doesn't matter which one), clean them, then install the bearings in your wheels with the dust cover side facing out.  If, after cleaning them once, they are still making strange noises or not spinning as they should, take the other dust cover off and repeat the cleaning process.  If you still have some unsavory bearings after doing all that, I recommend tossing them...Or, you could always send them to me to make ShockerKnot jewelry.  Usually, if they are not working well after 2 cleanings, it's going to take a lot of work to get them to the point where they are worth putting in your wheels.

When your bearing wash gets nasty, all you have to do is filter the wash through a coffee filter or toss it and purchase more cleaner.  Each time you clean your bearings or filter your solution you will end up with less cleaner than before, so eventually you will need to purchase more cleaning solution anyway.

Moto Bearing Oil

After cleaning your bearings, just put them on a towel and pat them dry.  If you're impatient, you can use some canned air or an air compressor to dry them quicker.  If you live in a humid area, I don't suggest letting them drip dry as it will take forever and rust is highly likely.

I like to spin them at this time just to see if there are any that may need further attention then place ONE drop of lube in each bearing and give it a quick spin.  I like using Moto Bearing Oil because the needle applicator doesn't get lube all over the place.  After lubing up each bearing, I let them sit for a few minutes before giving them another spin to make sure they are all good-to-go (clean again if not).

I recommend cleaning your bearings about every other month, but if you have taken your dust covers off or skate in an extra dusty environment, you will need to clean them more often.  Proper care of bearings makes them last longer and work better.  In the long run, it costs a lot less to purchase a bearing tool, wash/spa, and lube than most sets of bearings.

If you were anxious about cleaning your bearings for the first time, I hope I have given you the tools to be able to tackle this task with confidence.

Until we skate again!
Shocker

Get Your Bearings!

You wouldn't be anywhere if it weren't for your bearings...literally.  And there are so many for us to choose from it can get overwhelming, but that's what I'm here for.



Exploded View of a Bearing

This is what the parts of a bearing looks like, specifically a Bones Swiss bearing.  Starting from the left, we have the dust cover or shield, inner race, balls (ball bearings), retainer, and outer race.  Except for the number of ball bearings and sometimes the addition of another shield or dust cover on the other side of the bearing, all bearings are pretty much this same setup.

Materials

Cheezeball Gouda Bearings

Most bearings come with steel balls (insert cojones joke here), but some tout "ceramic" balls.  These aren't your mom's pottery shaped into tiny little balls, rather "ceramic" ball bearings are actually made out of (Si3N4) ceramic silicon nitride...isn't ceramic a lot easier to reference?

An example of some ceramic bearings are the Cheezeball Gouda bearings, as pictured to the right. 

Ceramic balls are harder than steel balls and result in longer life, faster roll, and some pretty swanky self cleaning action.  They also resist oxidation so you don't have to worry about rust as with steel bearings.  The drawback to these little pieces of roller heaven are their pricetag...usually around $150 for a set of 16; however, the Cheezeball Goudas pictured here are only $119 and are some of the best bearings I've ever had the pleasure of skating on.  I've also heard the same from everyone I've sold them to so it's not just me.

Number of Balls

Most bearings come with 7 balls each, but some have 6 and some have 8.  The idea behind having fewer balls per bearings is that there is less surface area touching the inner and outer races making for a faster roll.  The idea behind having more balls is that your weight is distributed better.  Personally, I felt a difference when I went from el cheapo bearings to Qube 8-Ball bearings and I've talked to some other bigger skaters who felt the same way.  I haven't personally tried out any of the 6 ball bearings, such as the Bones Super Swiss 6 but the skaters who I've talked to who have tried them said they felt faster, but not everyone was able to justify the $115 price tag.

ABEC vs Skate Rated

I've had some people pick up a pack of bearings, ask what ABEC rating they were, then when I told them they weren't ABEC rated but rather were "Skate Rated," they put them down and wanted to purchase only ABEC rated bearings.  This is a tell tale sign of either a new skater, or someone who hasn't done their research.  ABEC, or Annular Bearing Engineers Committee rates dimensions, tolerances, geometry, and noise standards for bearings in an attempt to aid industrial bearing manufacturers and users in the production, comparison and selection of bearings for general applications.  Meaning this is a generic overview of how well a bearing works for a wide variety of uses.  ABEC ratings are noted as odd numbers from 1 to 9, the higher the number, the tighter the tolerances.

For instance, bearings used in machinery such as high speed routers would need to be precise when turning at 30,000 revolutions per minute (RPM) and would usually have an ABEC rating of a 7 or 9.  To put this in perspective, you would be traveling about 190 MPH if your wheels rotated at 30,000 RPM.  If you are going to do some downhill racing, then you may want to look at some ABEC 7 or 9 rated bearings, but for most Roller Derby activities Skate Rated bearings are what you want to look for.

When you are skating, you are moving and jumping around a lot, which causes bearings to be jostled, impacted, and pressured in ways that they wouldn't if they were just turning in a machine.  Skate Rated bearings take into account things like side loading, impact resistance, materials selection and grade, appropriateness of lubrication, ball retainer type, grade of ball, the clearance between the balls and the races, installation requirements, and the need for maintenance and cleaning. You can read more of the details of Skate Rated vs. ABEC at the Bones Bearing website.

Breaking In

When you first get a set of bearings and you take them out of the package, they aren't going to spin super fast and forever.  This is because most bearings come packed with lube that needs to be properly distributed and the components of the bearings need to loosen up so they work together better and faster.  I've seen some articles on using a treadmill or a Dremmel to break in bearings, but I really just recommend going out and skating on them for a practice to get them all nice and spinny (technical term).  If you need new bearings on bout day, get GRN MNSTR Moto Deluxe bearings, which come pre-spun and ready to go out of the package.  They also come in a cool metal container that prevents any of the lube from leaching into the packaging, unlike most other bearing packages.

If you take the bearings out of the package for the first time and there are any hitches or they won't roll at all, contact the manufacturer because this is likely a defect.  Now, I don't mean if they are slow, because as previously said, they need to be broken in to spin quickly.  Also, if you have a bearing that falls apart after only skating on it for a little while, this is a defect that the manufacturer will usually take care of.

Care and Maintenance

There are a few tools out there for pulling and installing bearings but the best I've found so far is the Bones Bearing Tool.  It is small enough to fit into any tool bag and works really well to pull bearings out of wheels and push them back without damaging the bearings.  I've seen too many people use the long end of the Reflex Utilitool to push out bearings and just ruin them because they put too much pressure on the dust covers.  DON'T DO THIS!  Please, I beg you!  If you don't have/can't afford a proper bearing tool and none of your friends will lend you theirs, you can use the axle of your skate to pop bearings out and push them back in, but this doesn't work well on alloy hubbed wheels.

Cleaning your bearings really isn't as hard as some people make it out to be.  There are a couple of really cool bearing cleaners such as those made by Bones or Bionic on the market that hold 8 bearings at a time and all you do is add solvent, soak for a few minutes, and shake to get the gunk and grime out of your precious little rollers.  You can also use something like a mason jar if nothing else, but be careful because you can break the glass if you are overzealous and shake instead of swirl!  Some plastic containers will melt depending on the solvent you use, so that's why I really just like to go with one of the special containers on the market, or a glass jar if in a pinch. 

UPDATE:  See A Vacation for Your Bearings for information on the new Qube Bearing Spa, which cleans all 16 bearings at once!

There are lots of different solvents that will clean your bearings well... gasoline, mineral spirits, rubbing alcohol, and of course there is bearing wash specifically formulated for cleaning bearings.

After you have soaked and swished the bearings around in the solvent, take the bearings and pat them dry on a towel.  I like to also use canned air or an air compressor to make sure they are really dry (watch your eyes!).  Then take some bearing lube and put one drop inside the bearing, spin the bearing, then let it set for a few minutes before spinning it again just to make sure there aren't any hitches.  If there are, then try to clean and lube the bearing again.  If it is still hitching, then (in my opinion) it's time to toss it or make it into some cool jewlery.

There is some controversy over bearing shields aka dust covers.  Some bearings have dust covers that are really easy to pop off with a small pin, but others are much more difficult and popping off the dust cover can cause it to warp.  If I have to take the dust covers off my bearings when I clean them, I just leave them off rather than take the chance they are warped and will cause friction when put back on the bearing.

Bearing Spacers and Washers

I recently discovered the joys of bearing spacers and washers.  Bearing spacers go in between the two bearings on the axle and make it so the bearings don't get side loaded.  You know how when you put your wheel on you have to undo the nut a little so your wheel will spin freely?  Well, bearing spacers make it so you don't have to back off the nut.  Bearing washers help this as well and when you use them together, it will really help make sure your bearings spin as freely as possible.  When using both of these items, the order from inside out is bearing washer, bearing, bearing spacer, bearing, bearing washer, axle nut.  Some trucks have a built in bearing washer where the inside of the wheel touches the truck, so the first bearing washer isn't needed.

When you are using bearing spacers and washers, your bearings are working how they were designed to work and it is pretty awesome.  Also, since you can tighten the axle nut more so than without, you lessen the chances of the nut backing off the axle and your wheel falling off, which is never a good thing.

So What Bearings Do I Choose?

So, now that you know more about bearings, how do you decide which ones to go with?  Well, Bones bearings have been around since the early 1980's and are tried and true in the skateboarding world... and while they are excellent bearings in their own right, they weren't created specifically for roller derby.  Cheezeballs, Bionic, Moto, and Qube bearings are relative newcomers on the scene, but their bearings were created specifically for derby and/or other types of quad skating, so they hold up to the rigors of our sport really well.

Your choice will depend heavily on how you plan to use and care for your bearings. If you plan to use the bearings outdoors or are not inclined to keep your bearings meticulously cleaned, you probably want to go with a less expensive bearing like the Qube Pink or Bones Reds. If you want to step up to a higher quality bearing, the Cheezeball Cheddar and Qube 8-Ball bearings are excellent choices without spending too much. If you want the best bearing money can buy and are willing to keep them clean (or have money burning a hole in your pocket), it might be worth looking at a Swiss or ceramic bearing such as the Cheezeball Gouda bearings mentioned earlier.

Now that we have gone over the basic components of bearings, how they work, what they are made from, and what you can do to extend their life, I think It's time for me to move on to my next post.  I will do more specific product reviews after my initial overview posts on skate components and protective gear.  Feel free to ask any questions concerning anything you have read here, or suggestions for future posts/product reviews, at Shocker Khan's G Spot and I will answer them ASAP! 

Until we skate again,

Shocker 

P.S. I'm working on getting some awesome items to give away, so stay tuned!!!

What's Up With Wheels?

My goal with this blog is to spread some of the knowledge I've acquired the past few years to all levels of skaters.  The first series of posts will cover the basics of gear, which may be a review for more advanced skaters, but after we make our way through the basics, I can focus more on specific product and in-depth reviews.  

I looked for a good picture of wheels in action and found this nice memory from the final tournament bout of last season.  As you can see, Blitzkrieg Baker (only ass is pictured) and I (orange helmet) turned into a centaur-like animal in order to engulf Salmon Ella with our massive booties.  

It looks like everyone is wearing Heartless wheels, which work amazingly well on the surface in the Dena'ina Center.  This post will cover many things about wheels and hopefully, after you have read it, you will be a little more knowledgeable or at least a little refreshed.



Now, onto wheels!
Juke, Poison, Fugitive, Interceptor, Sugar, Heartless, Radar…there are so many wheels to choose from it can get overwhelming.  But before we look at different manufacturers or specific wheels they offer, let's first go over the anatomy of a roller skate wheel.

Anatomy of a Wheel
Looking at this cross section of the Adonis wheel, we can see the outer layer (blue in this case) which is made from polyurethane of different durometers (hardnesses).  These hardnesses are represented by a number followed by an "A", such as 92A, or 86A.  Some wheels will designate their hardness as "hybrid" or "outdoor" which usually have hardnesses of around 84A and 78A, respectively.  The higher the durometer, the harder the wheel will be.

The hub (white in this photo) holds the polyurethane in place and provides a place for the bearing to sit.  Hubs have some variation, with some having a solid core, others having a hollow core, and some having an aluminum core.  These different cores allow for different weights, speeds, traction, and grip.

Bearings
Next comes the bearings, which we could go on and on about, but we won't because they will have their own post later on...but we can go over a few basics while we are on the topic.  Each wheel takes 2 bearings.  The bearings can have 6, 7, or 8 ball bearings within them, but 7 is standard.  In this image, there is a bearing spacer between the two bearings.  Bearing spacers help to keep the bearings working correctly and I've noticed a huge difference in my speed since I started using them.  There seems to be a divide amongst skaters about whether these are needed or not, but instead of listening to a bunch of differing opinions, why not try some and see what you think?  2N1 Skate Shoppe has some bearing spacers for $4 a set, plus bearing washers for $5 a set (I recommend using both to get the most out of your bearings).

Wheel Sizing and Grooves
Now that we have dissected a wheel and looked at its innards, let's take a look of some of the wheel's outer characteristics.  Standard wheels are about 40mm wide and 62mm in height. These wheels become clunky for many skaters, so often they turn to lower and/or thinner wheels, such as the Atom Lowboy Slim which are 62mm high and 38mm wide or the GRN MNSTR Heartless wheels which are 62mm high and 35mm wide (one of the skinniest wheels on the market).  The Adonis Micro Wheels are the lowest and skinniest wheels I've seen on the market at 50mm high and 32mm wide.  I will do product reviews on these wheels for a later blog, but if you have any questions on any of these wheels, or anything else, please feel free to send me an e-mail at 2N1SkateShoppe@gmail.com.

On the surface of most indoor wheels, you will see grooves running along the circumference of the wheel.  These grooves help to grip to surfaces and you can get your wheels regrooved once they have worn out to make your wheels better than new.  It is much cheaper to get a set of wheels regrooved than purchase a whole new set.  

Choosing Your Wheels
What are the factors that go into choosing a set of wheels?  Well, your skating level is definitely a factor.  If you are just starting to skate and are having trouble staying upright, you probably want to start out with some fairly sticky and wide wheels.  Check out some Atom Poison wheels for great grip and stability.

At the point where you feel like you are skating through peanut butter?  Time to think of some harder or thinner wheels.  You may also want to switch to some harder and/or skinnier wheels if you experience shin splints, which can be caused from your muscles having to work too hard.  Sure Grip Zombie wheels are also popular because they come in 3 sizes and 3 harnesses for a total of 9 different combinations to choose from. Coupled with their anodized aluminum hubs, they have quickly become a popular new wheel!

Slipping out all the time on turns?  You can get a grip with some softer wheels, but grippier wheels tend to be slower so you sacrifice speed for stability.  When you first start skating, slipping even a little can feel very disconcerting.  When you feel more comfortable on your skates you get used to crossing over more quickly on slicker surfaces and sliding makes practicing hockey stops and power slides much easier.

Another factor to consider is your weight.  Wheels that work great to keep a 100 lb skater on a fairly sticky track are going to make someone like me (a “big girl”) feel like I’m super glued to the track.  Don't feel like just because half the team has a wheel that works perfectly for them, that it should also work for you.  

Personal Preferences
Lastly, everyone has their own personal preference so when you are getting ready to purchase some new wheels, see if someone else already has some you can borrow first just to make sure they will work for you.  If that isn't an option, look for wheels that come in 4 packs so you can adjust your wheels by purchasing a 4 pack of grippier or harder wheels instead of another 8 pack, which can get pretty expensive.  I have a box of wheels that I bring to practice with me for other skaters to try out and have even sent them to clients to try out before purchasing their new wheels just to make sure they are getting the best wheels possible for them.  It really helps to make sure you are getting the best bang for your buck.

Cleaning Your Wheels
Cleaning wheels is super easy, just pop out your bearings (very important!), throw them in a tub with warm soapy water in it, then scrub with one of those green and yellow sponges. I normally use either dish washing liquid or laundry detergent for soap, which has worked for me really well. If the gunk on the wheels is really caked on you can let the wheels soak a bit in some fairly hot soapy water before scrubbing (almost too hot for your hands is usually perfect). Have a towel handy and after you have scrubbed all that dirt and grime off the wheel, take it and smack it against the towel a few times to get as much water out of the nooks as possible. This will allow a faster drying time. I don't worry about rinsing them after their bath, but it wouldn't hurt. Another way to dry them off is to use some canned air, or even better an air compressor if you happen to have one handy.

Well, I think that's a good place to stop for now.  Like I said, I want to have a nice overview of different pieces of gear before getting too far into the muck and the mire.  Next we will explore the awesomeness of those colorful little gummy looking things under your skate, connected to your king pin....your cushions!

Until then, skate safe and I'll see you on the track!

Shocker