Quick Tip: How to Remove Sure Grip Avenger Pivot Cups

The Sure Grip DA-45 Pivot Cups are made of Delrin nylon, and are among the longest-lasting pivot cups around, but even they should be replaced periodically. These cups are standard on the Sure Grip Avenger, Invader, and XK-4 plates using the DA-45 trucks.

If you've ever tried to remove the cups, you know how tight of a fit they are, and it is virtually impossible to remove the cup without marring the plate and likely breaking the tips off a few tools in the process!

This little hole is our saving grace!

Some plates have a small hole on the back side of the plate to allow you to push the cup out, but not these - making removing the plate a fruitless effort. So, how to get these cups out without damaging the plate, breaking our tool, and stabbing ourselves in the hand?


Luckily, Sure Grip was nice enough to put a small hole in the bottom of the pivot cup. This hole allows air to escape from between the cup and the plate when installing the pivot cup; but more importantly for us, it gives us a handy way to remove the cup.

Nothing like a good screw.

First, find an appropriately sized screw. I use a standard coarse-thread drywall screw, but pretty much any similar-sized wood or sheet metal screw should work (obviously, you want to make sure it's not a self-drilling drywall screw meant for metal studs, lest you end up with a hole in your plate and sole of your skate!).

Starting to move!

If you want to make the process a little easier, you can put a drop of bearing oil in the bottom of the cup, but it is not necessary. To begin, drive the screw into the hole using a screwdriver. The king pin will be in the way a bit, but it's easy enough to work around. (You can remove the king pin of the Invader or XK-4 if you'd like, but it is not necessary, and the kingpin of the Avenger is not removable in any case.)

Almost there!

Once you drive the screw through the pivot cup and it starts pressing against the metal plate, the pivot cup will start to be forced up and out of the cup. Continue to drive the screw until the pivot cup is pushed up to the point where it starts spinning (usually this happens once it gets about 90% of the way out of the cup). At this point grab onto the cup with some pliers and pull it out the rest of the way. That's all there is to it!

Ta-da!

Until we skate again!

Shocker

What a Tangled Web We Weave...er, Lace

The wait is finally over!  Thanks to everyone who commented on my last article, "Changing Wheels."  The response was amazing.  Thanks to those who offered their own personal tips and tricks (if you haven't gone back to read the comments, I recommend you do so)!  Well, without further ado, the lucky G Spot readers who will get something from "Shocker's Box O' Goodies" are:

• Ashley Dawn
• Kyrstin Krist
• Tracy
• Amanda Brown
• Amanda Duncil
• Shari Konst

If you see your name, congratulations!  Shoot me an e-mail at 2N1SkateShoppe@gmail.com with your mailing information (name, address, phone number optional) and I'll get your goodies in the mail ASAP!  If your name didn't get picked this time, keep trying!  I try to do these types of give-aways as much as possible...who knows, there might be something at the end of this article...*wink wink*

Whether you won and are anxiously awaiting a package delivery or you're trying not to be too sad over the fact you didn't win this time, let's distract you with a topic I've encountered frequently over the years...

Recently, I've had quite a few skaters ask me to recommend laces that won't break or shred after just a few practices while other skaters have issues lacing their skates so that their feet stay put without having the laces pulled so tight their feet end up cramping and/or going numb.  Here are a few informational nuggets I've learned throughout the years and suggestions for some tried-and-true as well as new-to-the-market laces to take a look at the next time you're in the market.

But first, there's the little matter of length.

Size DOES Matter
Laces come in many sizes...laces at 2N1 Skate Shoppe range from 45" to 110," which can confuse even the most veteran skaters.  Let's go over which lengths work best for the many styles of Roller Derby boots.  The following is a GENERAL overview on the most common lace lengths you'll find and which boots they SHOULD fit.  A few factors will cause the wearer to need a different length than the one listed below; such as, how tight/loose boots are laced, whether the laces wrap around the ankle or plate, and number of eyelets used (see the "Skate Comfortably" section below for different lacing examples).

Antik Waxed Skate Laces in 4 Lengths

45" - Shoes or may be used as a pair for each boot to create 2 different tensions.



54"-60"-66" - Youth skates, Jackson, Sure Grip, or other skates with less than 9 pairs of eyelets.



72"-81" - Most adult Roller Derby boots with at least 9 pairs of eyelets.



96"-108" - Hockey, Figure Skating, and High-Top Boots such as the Antik AR1 or MG2.






Lasting Laces
Some laces seem to start to shred immediately after you've threaded them through your eyelets...well, I'm happy to tell you those days are no more!  Longer lasting options are now available, such as:

Colorful Crazy Laces come in 3 Sizes

Crazy Laces
It used to be the only option for seriously durable laces came from the same company that brought us Play wheels and Bounce toe stops...Crazy Skate Co.  They are no longer the only game in town as far as lasting laces go, but they are the only company that offers their laces in a rainbow of colors.  Crazy Laces come in 3 sizes and the number of colors available varies by length.

Waxed Laces
Antik, Luigino, and Sure Grip offer waxed laces in a variety of lengths, which are not only long lasting, but also stay in place once tied.  I suggest these for skaters who prefer their laces super tight and get annoyed when they come undone when skating.

Kevlar Reinforced Laces
I haven't been able to test these Kevlar Reinforced Laces out yet but they sure seem like they would be pretty impossible to shred.  Definitely an option for skaters tired of repeatedly breaking laces.



NOT Your Old Skates!

New Custom Skates Built at 2N1 From Soccer Cleats!

I have noticed that many skaters have serious foot/lower leg cramping issues that won't seem to go away when they get their first non-Rookie pair of skates.  It baffled me for a long time...especially with those skaters whom I personally fitted and know they are wearing properly fitted boots with all the correct accouterments (plates mounted correctly with kingpin angles, wheels, and bearings specifically picked out for the skater).  Finally, after watching a skater lace up, I realized these skaters were treating their new skates as if they were the same as their old ones!

Rookie skates (at least the ones we sell at 2N1) run around $175 and are made to last around 1-3 seasons of Roller Derby practices/bouts/tournaments/boot camps.  At the end of their lifespan, they are usually floppy sacks of leather barely being held together by patches, shoe-goo, and sheer willpower.  Skaters have to lace them a specific way to keep their feet from going numb while also making sure the skates aren't going to fly off the track when performing cross overs or running on their toe stops.

When skaters receive their next pair of skates, they are in the habit of lacing a certain way, but when my clients come to me for upgraded skates, they should not only fit them like ballerina slippers, but also be able to hug their feet without having the laces pulled taught and their heels should be cupped by the boot in such a way they won't slip out yet are as mobile as if they were wearing nothing.

This is one of the many reasons why it is so crucial to have a good rapport with your Roller Derby gear supplier.

Skate Comfortably
There are many different ways to lace skates.  The best method for you depends on factors like foot shape, high/low/normal arches, type of skates, skinny/normal/fat ankles, and personal preference.  I will post a different method, including pictures, for the next few blog posts since we have already discussed quite a bit of information and I'm sure your attention is waning (thanks for sticking around this long!). 

Want to know what's happening in this picture? ------------------------------>

Stay tuned to the next article to find out!

For my next giveaway, I'll be giving away one of my popular DerbyPunk Wine/Liquor Bottle Stoppers to one of the followers of my new Etsy store, The ShockerKnot.  When you head over there, why not check out the other Roller Derby inspired items I've created and find the perfect gift for any Rollergirl (including yourself!)!

The giveaway will happen at the end of June 2014, so if you are reading this article after that date, you missed out on this particular opportunity; however, I regularly run contests and giveaways either here, on FB, or through one of my other various media outlets, so keep stalking me and I'm sure you'll be able to get in on some Shocker action soon.


Until we skate again!
Shocker

P.S. The G Spot now has a FaceBook Page!  Keep track of new articles as well as current and upcoming contests by "Liking" the G Spot on FB...by doing that, you may be entered to win something in the future...

Catching Up With the Undead

I was finally able to test out Sure Grip Zombie wheels for the past few weeks.  They are a recently introduced (within the last year) roller skate wheel available in three sizes; Max, Mid, and Low, and three hardnesses; 89a, 92a, and 95a.  All the wheels are a nice sleek black urethane and the hubs are colored aluminum...here are the stats: 

• Zombie 58mm Low – Smaller 58mm outer diameter and slimmer 38mm width wheels provide instant acceleration and increased lateral response.
• Zombie 62mm Mid – Slimmer 38mm width for increased lateral response.
• Zombie 62mm Max – 42mm full width wheel design for maximum grip and stability.

• 89A Purple Core – Polished concrete and other slippery surfaces for insane grip. Can also be used as a pusher wheel.
• 92A Black Core – For use on coated surfaces and tile. Loaded with an insane mix of grip and speed.
• 95A Red Core – For use on sticky surfaces, track, or soft skate court where a hard wheel is desired for increased roll.

These wheels look sharp, but how do they perform?

Normally, I wear wheels that are about 90a hardness for practice, so I tried out a combination of 89a/92a in the Low size.  Aluminum hub wheels are usually reported to be less grippy than those with nylon hubs so I was prepared to slide all over the place-this didn't happen.  I was so stuck to the track I didn't dare try a hockey stop at full speed for fear of snapping an ankle.  Aluminum hub wheels don't flex under a skater's weight like nylon hubs, thus making them roll faster, have a smoother ride, and (usually) gives the skater less grip.  This can be especially helpful for us skaters with a bit more heft.

Once I got over how grippy these wheels were, I was pleasantly surprised at how these rolled around the track.  The ride was smooth, I didn't feel any noticeable weight difference, and even though I couldn't slide at all my speed wasn't compromised.

Some of the wheels had little pieces of urethane coming off of them.  It looked like some of the urethane had gotten onto the aluminum hub during production and ended up coming off after the wheels were used...none of the pieces I saw coming off would make a difference in the way the wheel worked, it was just aesthetically unpleasing.

Another item skaters have contacted me about is that sometimes bearings do not want to stay in the wheel when changing wheels out...this is something that occurs with a lot of aluminum hubs due to the rigidity of the metal.  This is actually not something to worry about as long as the bearings aren't moving around in the hub.  It might be a little annoying, but it's worse to get a bearing stuck in a wheel!

We have sold quite a few sets of Zombie wheels in all sizes and hardnesses and almost all of the feedback has been positive.  I would recommend these for skaters who are ready to step things up from a nylon hub but may not be ready to spend a lot of money.  At $55 for a 4 pack, Sure Grip has produced a decent wheel just about every skater can afford.

To sum things up, here are the Pros and Cons of the Sure Grip Zombie wheels:

Pros:
Fast, smooth roll
Light in weight
Cool looking
Relatively inexpensive

Cons:
Grippier than expected
Small amount of peeling may occur
Bearings may slip out when changing wheels

Have you tried these?  If so, tell us what you think in the comments...

Until we skate again,
Shocker